第40课

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Waves are the children of the struggle between ocean and atmosphere, the ongoing signatures of infinity.

波浪是海洋与大气搏斗的产物，是永恒的无限的印记。

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Rays from the sun excite and energize the atmosphere of the earth, awakening it to flow, to movement, to rhythm, to life.

太阳的光线激发并激活了地球的大气层，使其流动、运动、有节奏、有生命。

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The wind then speaks the message of the sun to the sea

风将太阳的信息传递给大海

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and the sea transmits it on through waves--an ancient, exquisite powerful message.

大海通过波浪将其传递出去——一个古老、精致、有力的信息。

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These ocean waves are among the earth's most complicated natural phenomena.

这些海浪是地球上最复杂的自然现象之一。

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The basic features include a crest (the highest point of the wave),

基本特征包括波峰（波浪的最高点），

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a trough (the lowest point), a height (the vertical distance from the trough to the crest),

波谷（最低点），波高（从波谷到波峰的垂直距离），

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a wave length (the horizontal distance between two wave crests),

波长（两个波峰之间的水平距离），

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and a period (which is the time it takes awave crest to travel one wave length).

和周期（波峰传播一个波长所需的时间）。

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Although an ocean wave gives the impression of a wall of water moving in your direction,

尽管海浪给人一种水墙向你移动的印象，

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in actuality waves move through the water leaving the water about where it was.

但实际上，波浪穿过水体，使水大致停留在原来的位置。

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If the water was moving with the wave,

如果水体随波浪移动，

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the ocean and everything on it would be racing in to the shore with obviously catastrophic results.

海洋和其上的一切都会冲向海岸，显然会造成灾难性的后果。

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An ocean wave passing through deep water causes a particle on the surface to move in a roughly circular orbit,

海浪穿过深水时，会使水面上的粒子呈近似圆形轨道运动，

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drawing the particle first towards the advancing wave, then up into the wave,

首先将粒子拉向前进的波浪，然后向上进入波浪，

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then forward with it and then--as the wave leaves the particles behind--back to its starting point again.

然后随波浪向前，接着——当波浪将粒子留在身后时——回到其起始点。

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From both maturity to death, a wave is subject to the same laws as any other 'living' thing.

从形成到消亡，波浪与任何其他“有生命”的事物一样，都遵循相同的规律。

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For a time it assumes a miraculous individuality that, in the end, is reabsorbed into the great ocean of life.

在一段时间内，它呈现出奇妙的个体性，最终又重新融入生命的浩瀚海洋。

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The undulating waves of the open sea are generated by three natural causes:

开阔海域的波浪由三种自然原因产生：

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wind, earth movements or tremors, and the gravitational pull of the moon and the sun.

风、地壳运动或震动，以及月亮和太阳的引力。

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Once waves have been generated,

一旦波浪产生，

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gravity is the force that drives them in a continual attempt to restore the ocean surface to a flat plain.

引力便是驱使它们不断尝试将海洋表面恢复到平坦状态的力量。