008 我的奶酪匠生涯

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My name is Fillippo Bogliano, and I live in northern Italy

我叫菲利波·博利亚诺，我住在意大利北部。

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My home is on the southern slopes of the Alps in a city

called Turin, which is also on the Po River.

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Many people travel here to trade with the local merchants for all kinds of

products; some buy red wine while others come for our nutty chocolate.

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But Turin is best known for its cheese! How do I know this?

但都灵最出名的还是它的奶酪！我是怎么知道的呢？

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Because I am a casaro, an expert cheese maker

因为我就是一名卡萨罗，一位专业的奶酪制作师。

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My family first came to this area from France in

1745, when I was just a year old.

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Then my father herded cattle in the mountains and sold fresh milk

but this was hard work and did not pay very well.

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My father soon discovered that the casaros who bought

his milk made a very nice living.

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So he decided that when I was old enough, I would

learn the cheese-making trade.

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When I reached the age of 11, my father sent me to live with one

of the most respected casaros in Turin.

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This man was glad to be my mentor since my father had

taught me so much about milk already.

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I was an apprentice for five years, and I learned everything

there was to know about making cheese.

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I quickly realized that no two batches of cheese are alike, just as no

pail of fresh milk is exactly the same as another.

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I also learned that even a small change in the cheese-making process

can result in a completely different kind of cheese.

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Now I am 22, and I have my own business, which keeps my whole family busy

现在我22岁了，有了自己的生意，这让我的全家人都忙碌了起来。

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My mother and father sell our cheese in the marketplace; my two brothers

tend the cows, and my wife, Magda, manages the household.

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We all work together because making cheese is difficult work

我们所有人都一起工作，因为制作奶酪是一项辛苦的工作。

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Several kinds of cheese are made in this region of

Italy, but Gorgonzola is my favorite,

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because this white, creamy cheese with blue veins has a sharp, tangy flavor

因为这种带有蓝纹的白色奶油状奶酪，有着浓烈而辛辣的风味。

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It is the most famous cheese in Turin and my specialty

它是都灵最著名的奶酪，也是我的专长。

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Legend has it that Gorgonzola was discovered by accident by an

apprentice casaro who was very much in love.

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He was late for a meeting with his girlfriend

but he had not finished his work.

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So he dumped his unfinished cheese into a pail of fresh

milk that a herdsman had brought in.

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Later the mixture hardened, became moldy, and turned greenish blue

but the casaro didn't want to throw it away.

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So he sold it anyway, and his customers loved it!

Gorgonzola cheese was born.

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To be honest, though, making this wonderful

cheese takes talent and patience.

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Every evening, after our herd comes down from the alpine meadows, my

brothers milk the cows and bring the milk into my workshop.

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I carefully pour the milk into shallow pails and allow it to set overnight

我小心地把牛奶倒进浅桶里，让它静置一整晚。

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The next day I add a special ingredient called rennet

第二天我会加入一种特别的原料，叫凝乳酶。

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Rennet is an acidic enzyme, a natural chemical produced in a calf's stomach

凝乳酶是一种酸性酶，是小牛胃里产生的天然化学物质。

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It turns the milk into a curd — a thickened milk paste — and separates

the curd from the whey, a thin and yellowish liquid.

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In fact, this action is called " turning " the milk. On the morning of the

second day, I make another curd from the morning milking.

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Then, in the afternoon, I combine the curd from the first

day with the curd from the second day.

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I put the fresh curd on the bottom and sides of the

pail and the older curd in the center.

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Next I gently knead the curd with my hands, smoothing

it out, and remove it from the pail.

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Then I shape the cheese into a circular shape, called a round

然后我把奶酪塑成一个圆形，叫作奶酪轮。

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Many types of cheese are made in this way, and cheese can be made in

rounds of any size—some are small and some are quite large.

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I make about three rounds a day, and flip them over frequently

to drain the remaining whey out of the curd.

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Most days there is no time to go back to the house for breakfast

or lunch, so Magda brings pasta to my workshop.

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She doesn't like to come here very much because she

thinks that the cheese is too stinky.

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She says that Gorgonzola smells like dirty socks!

她说戈尔贡佐拉奶酪闻起来像脏袜子！

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She is right; it does smell pretty bad

她说得对；确实挺难闻的。

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But I am so used to it now that it doesn't bother me

但我现在已经习惯了，不再觉得困扰。

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I just think about how good it will taste

我只想着它会有多好吃。

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The final step is to add sea salt to the rounds of curd over

a period of five days to firm them up.

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Then the rounds are ready to be ripened, and my brothers

and I take all the rounds to a nearby cave.

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We stack them on tall wooden racks like books on a library shelf

and as they go through the aging process,

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I return to the cave often to flip the rounds over

我时常回到窑洞去翻转奶酪轮。

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This keeps the rounds firm and hard as they age

这样能让奶酪轮在熟化过程中保持坚实。

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Our caves in northern Italy have the perfect temperature

and humidity for ripening the cheese.

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These special caves also have a mold that grows in them

这些特殊的窑洞里还会生长一种霉菌。

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It attaches itself to the ripening cheese and, like magic, causes the blue

and green veins to appear in the cheese in about three weeks!

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We have to let the Gorgonzola ripen for at least three

months before it is ready to eat.

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Younger cheese tastes sweeter and is softer. Rounds that are aged more

than six months are harder and have a spicy flavor.

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Older Gorgonzola that is aged for a year is more

valuable, so we mostly make this kind.

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When the cheese rounds are ready, my brothers carry them to the wagon so

that my mother and father can take them to the market the next day.

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At our stall, Bogliano's Gorgonzola, everyone can stop and taste our cheese

drink a little wine, and talk about the lovely weather.

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Oh, I wish I could eat and talk with our customers, but I must stay behind

to clean up the caves and watch over the next batch of cheese as it ages.

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My cheese-making work never ends, but I love it!

我的奶酪制作工作永无止境，但我热爱它！